Fig Anchoïade - Fig and Anchovy Spread

I was in San Luis Obispo a couple of Septembers ago for an Artisan Cheese Making Course at Cal Poly, and memories of gorging on fresh figs the previous summer in Santa Barbara, had my mouth watering over the possibilities. As I strolled the evening Farmer’s Market, farmers still had fresh figs to sell, mainly Turkish, and Mission. It was the intense flavor of some dried Black Missions, however, and a plump and pliable texture you just can’t find in stores that really grabbed me by the palate. I bought a bag for my nephew and his wife in Ventura, and one for myself. By the time I reached their home the next evening, half of my figs were gone…so addictive. After a delightful brunch the next day, I nibbled the figs on the long trip home with only an indelible memory remaining as we landed.

A few months later, while I was doing some research on the cuisines of North Africa, I stumbled on Diana Henry’s Crazy Water, Pickled Lemons, a delightful book, published in England in 2002 and chock full of culture and enticing recipes from the Mediterranean. Her recipe for Fig Anchoïade, a fig and anchovy spread, caught my eye, and those dried San Luis figs came to mind. I dashed off an email to my nephew about the availability of dried figs at his Farmers’ Markets - nix in all cases. The local co-ops had only rocks masquerading as black figs, so I was out of luck, but determined for 2008.

Despite impatient pestering, it wasn’t until October that a package containing dried figs arrived, both Kadota and Black Mission. Sadly, the Black Mission were dry and tough, but the Kadota were softer and more pliable than I expected, so I decided to use them instead. While prepping, I realized that it might not matter how dried the figs were, since they are re-hydrated first. I used Piquillos in lieu of the roasted pepper and Scalia anchovies in extra virgin olive oil. Adjusting her recipe, I increased the figs from three to six and the almonds from 12 to 18.

To say it turned out would be an understatement! The sweet fig, salty, aromatic anchovy, and fat-rich almonds creating quite a mélange with no single ingredient dominating. The parsley and fennel added delightful notes, especially the fennel with the fig. The orange blossom added pleasantly to the finish when I though it would be buried by the rest. I went through half a baguette that evening with red wine, and the rest for lunch the next day with a glass of white. I made a double batch, and its flavor seemed to get even better every day until it was gone.

Each time that I’ve served it since, it’s been a winner. I think it’s the perfect accompaniment for friends, a setting summer sun, and a bottle of pink wine, maybe Alberto Longo Rosato, Mas de Gourgonnier Rosé, or even Soter Vineyards Sparkling Rosé.

Fig Anchoïade

Diana Henry credited the original recipe to Austin de Croze from Le Trésor Gastronomique de la France, which he co-wrote in 1933. Tinkering with the recipe I adjusted some of its quantities to suite my taste. The longer this refrigerates, the better the flavor. This can be covered and kept in the fridge for up to a week. It is best to make at least a day ahead.

• 6 dried figs (white, black or mixed)
• 1 red pepper, roasted and skin removed
• 4 ounce anchovy fillets packed in oil (I use 1-1/2 jars of Scalia anchovies packed in extra virgin olive oil, and I reserve the oil to use below)
• 2 garlic cloves
• 18 blanched almonds (10 walnut halves may be used instead)
• 1 handful flat leaf parsley
• 1 teaspoon fennel seed
• Black pepper, to taste
• 1/2 lemon, juiced
• 5 ounce extra virgin olive oil
• 1 to 2 teaspoons orange flower water

1. Soak the figs in hot water for about 15 minutes, then drain.
2. Put everything, except the oil and orange flower water, into a food processor.
3. Purée while adding the oil in a steady stream. Taste and add orange flower water 1/2 teaspoon at a time in case you find it too perfumed.
4. Cover and chill until ready to serve. Serve with grilled bread or crudités.