Ah yes, that’s when the bell rings and selling begins on Saturday mornings at the University District Farmers’ Market, and those in the know get there as early as possible before the crowds turn into long queues, and before the choice fruits and vegetables are all gone. I was interested in organic tomatoes today, and so I stopped at Billy’s Organic Produce from Tonasket in the Okanagan Valley in Northeastern Washington. He has the biggest selection of tomatoes at this time of the year, and they are always some of the best. After I got my tomatoes, I noticed that he had two relatively unusual offerings, Wild Arugula and Puntarelle Greens. They were both great looking, and so I bought a bunch of each before heading off to find some other necessities.
I have a been rocket man for a long, long time, - that’s arugula in the U.K. and Australia and Rucola in Italy - and while I did notice that the leaves weren’t always the same shape and color, it wasn’t until a few years ago that I realized that there are different varieties. The light to medium green leaf arugula that you see in supermarkets is Eruca sativa, a member of the Brassica family with a spicy to peppery flavor depending on their age when harvested. If the arugula before you is a darker green, even with a hint of blue, and it has narrower more fluted leaves, then it is actually another member of the Brassica Family, Diplotaxis tenuifolia. Usually, but not always, labeled Wild Arugula, although it is also known as Perennial Wallrocket or even Sylvetta. The best place to find it is in Farmers’ Markets and Food Cooperatives. Wild Arugula is a heartier green with a more robust flavor and a lot more pepper. It is great for any of the typical uses of arugula, such as salads and sandwiches, and I really like it with prosciutto. It is even better than regular arugula for pesto, and since it can take more heat, it is great for pasta. I plan on using some of it for a salad, and the remainder for a pesto with almonds and Parmigiano Reggiano.
Puntarelle is a member of the chicory family that is a specialty of Rome and the surrounding region, and it’s a true rarity in this country. The plant is also known as Catalonia Chicory and Puntarelle Chicory, and in Italy it is the heart of the plant that is sliced thin and served in salads and pastas, usually with anchovies or an anchovy dressing, which complements its bitter to bitter sweet flavor with hints of fennel. The leaves can be serrated or, as in this case, smooth, and they are often compared in flavor to arugula, but I find them more assertive, a cross of dandelion and arugula if you will, with more of a tangy finish than a peppery one. I plan on trying the younger, more delicate leaves in a salad with chopped anchovy, olive oil, and lemon, and I will briefly sauté the more mature leaves with olive oil, garlic, and thinly sliced sweet onion and serve them on some pasta.
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