Pistachio Black Pepper Cake

I developed this little number over a decade ago during my time as a caterer. It was actually used quite successfully as a 'base' in a savory application, at the time, since then I've used it a number of different sweet and savory ways.

This is a ‘sponge’ style cake, and without any yolks, it is lighter than a ‘pound’ style cake - but with the booze and butter it's still plenty rich. I believe I first whipped it together in one of my pastry classes, but I also suggested it to the executive chef of the catering company I was working for as the base for an hors d’oeuvre. The first few times I made it in bread pans like a pound cake, sliced it lengthwise about 1/2 inches thick, and then cut the slices into small triangles with legs of about 1-1/2 inches. I spread these out on sheet pans and dried them at low temperature like a biscotti. We then topped the triangles with thin slices of medium rare lamb loin and topped that with a tiny dollop of mint chutney. They were a big hit and were put on the permanent menu. We eventually baked the sponge in thin sheets to cut the preparation time.

Now I typically use the cake as a base fresh or dried fruit compotes, especially cherries at the beginning of summer, and fresh figs at the end of summer. I cut in wedges when I serve it freshly baked, but cut in slices when I serve it toasted. Traditionalists love to pair cherries with pistachios, while Modernists feel that the combination of cherries and black pepper is extremely tasty, so it works extremely well with a sweet cherry and red wine compote. It will also work with just about any properly preserved cherries or dried white figs reconstituted with a good desert wine with the liquid reduced to make the sauce. You will have a number of egg yolks left over, so you can also make a quick sabayon to top the dessert with - for just a touch of richness! Today, I baked it in my twelve-inch by six-inch pan, which is roughly equivalent to a round ten-inch cake pan. It is difficult to see the black pepper in the image, but it comes through nicely in the flavor.

Pistachio And Black Pepper Cake

Serves 8 to 10

• 1 cup toasted pistachios, remove as much of the thin skin as possible
• 1-1/2 cup superfine sugar
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 10 tablespoon (1-1/4 stick) unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoon Brandy, Cognac, or Kirsch
• 2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon freshly grated black peppercorns
• 1 cup egg whites (about 8)
• Pinch of Sea salt
• Confectioner’s sugar for dusting (optional)

1. Set the rack at middle level of the oven and pre-heat to 350 degrees. Butter a 10-inch springform pan or regular cake pan and line with parchment.
2. Place the pistachio and ¾ cup of the sugar in a food processor and pulse until finely ground. Add the black pepper and pulse a few more times; transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in the flour.
3. In a saucepan, melt the butter and add the brandy and vanilla extract. Set aside to cool slightly.
4. In a clean, dry bowl, whip the egg whites with the salt until they form a soft peak. Sprinkle in the remaining ¾ cup of sugar in a slow stream, whipping constantly. Continue to whip until they hold a soft peak.
5. Alternately fold in the pistachio pepper and butter mixtures into the egg whites a third at a time, beginning with the pistachio mixture and ending with the butter mixture.
6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake the cake for about 50 minutes, until it is well risen and golden. The center of the cake should feel firm when pressed in the center.
7. Allow the cake to cool briefly on a rack before removing from pan. Dust lightly with confectioners’ sugar.